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Recipes
Get Wrapped Up in Tamales!
You will seldom hear someone mention homemade tamales without saying in the same breath,
"they're so much work!" And it's true: These steamed dumplings of rich, spicy filling
wrapped in corn dough and encased by a corn husk take lots of time and tender loving care
to make from scratch. The meat usually takes hours to cook; toasting, grinding and
blending the chiles and spices that go into the sauce is time-consuming too. And then
each tamale must be painstakingly assembled into a luscious little package, first
spreading a corn husk with an even layer of fluffy, sticky dough made from a special
kind of corn flour called masa harina, arranging
a stripe of long-simmered, lovingly spiced shredded meat down the
middle, and then carefully rolling up the husk so that the masa completely surrounds the
filling and the parcel stays intact, piling the tamales into a steamer, and after all
that, waiting anxiously for these ambrosial morsels to finally be ready. Once you take
a bite of a tamale fresh out of the steamer and savor its fluffy corn exterior and
succulent, rich filling, you'll understand why people still go to all the trouble.
What Makes a Tamale
There are three important components to a tamale: the wrapper, the dough and the
filling. It's most common to wrap tamales in dried corn husks which have been soaked
in water to make them pliable. Occasionally, people will use fresh corn husks or, in
some regions, even banana leaves to wrap their tamales.
Traditional tamale dough is a simple mixture of masa, lard and salt. Masa is dried
corn that has been cooked in limewater, soaked overnight, and then ground up while still
wet. Sold in this form, it's called fresh masa, and it makes the lightest, fluffiest
tamales. If fresh masa isn't available in your area, you should be able to find masa
harina, flour made from dried-out masa, in any grocery store with a decent-size
"international" aisle. Masa harina just needs to have extra liquid added to it,
and will still make very good tamales. If you're cooking for a vegetarian crowd or
lard simply makes you squeamish, you can substitute an equal amount of vegetable
shortening in your recipe, although the dough will not have the same fullness of
flavor. To ensure light and fluffy dough, whip the lard and salt with electric beaters
for a few minutes before adding the masa. Once you add the masa, continue to whip,
adding water or meat broth until the mixture is the consistency of soft cookie dough.
Test the dough by dropping a small ball of it into a glass of water. If the dough
sinks, it needs more liquid whipped into it; if it floats, it's ready!
Finally, there is the tamale filling. In this arena, almost anything goes. The most
well-known tamale recipes have a filling of braised pork or beef in a complex sauce of
spices and dried and fresh chiles. However, it's not uncommon to see tamales stuffed
with chicken, roasted vegetables, cheese, beans, seafood, or even sweet ones filled with
fruit and nuts. Use your imagination and your spice rack to concoct filling that will
gratify your wildest tamale fantasies. While you're going to all the trouble of making
tamales, why not whip up two or three kinds of filling at once for a real tamale
extravaganza!
Turn it into a Fiesta!
Making tamales can easily turn into an all-day affair, which is why Mexican families
reserve them as a treat for very special occasions. Often, people turn the tamale-making
itself into a party, where family and friends cluster in the kitchen, shredding meat,
spreading masa onto corn husks, rolling tamales, and talking and laughing. When you get
the urge to try your hand at a batch of tamales, roll up your sleeves, call up a few of
your favorite people, and get ready for a fiesta!
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